Seoul, Korea

This city of 10 million is the political and economic center of South Korea. Its citizens live precariously next door to a bellicose and threatening neighbor. Yet they continue to build major industries and a beautiful city, while restoring historical landmarks and maintaining their traditional customs. “We don’t think about atomic bombs,” our guide said. “We just live our lives.”

Our first visit in Seoul was to the Gyeongbokgung Palace where we watched the changing of the royal guards’ ceremony. Korea no longer has a monarchy, but the ceremony reenacts the custom of the royal court during the Joseon Dynasty, beginning in the 14th century, to ensure the security of the king and his court. Traditional costumes are worn, drums echo and music plays at this faithful reenactment. It begins at the Gwanghwamun Gate, below, the main entrance to the palace.

The grand 14th century Gyeongbokgung Palace has been built and rebuilt over the centuries as it endured fire, wars, and invasions. Since the 1990’s the walled palace complex is gradually being restored. Not all of the original palace’s 7,700 rooms will be rebuilt, but more than 500 buildings are now restored on almost 100 acres.

We saw lots of young people like these dressed up in period costumes, called Hanbok. Admission is free for people in costume, but clearly people did it for fun. And they loved posing for pictures.

The structure in the foreground was the pool reserved for the king.

This is one of a pair of statues called “Grandpa statues.” On Jeju island they were erected in front of town walls as guardians and objects of worship. The statue’s placement of his hands is a sign of virility.

The pavilion on this pond was a place for the king and his courtiers to meet and socialize.

The buildings along this path are restored, but the capped chimney spouts are original from the 14th century.

On the grounds of the palace are several museums. We visited the National Folk Museum of Korea, above. There were some wonderful exhibits of everyday life and culture in the country.

This is a recreation of a traditional bridal scene.

The funeral bier, for carrying the deceased to their grave, was a colorful, sculptural structure full of symbolic figures.

The lantern ceremony for the new year includes symbols for good luck, long life and prosperity.

This is a funeral couple laid out. Because choosing the garments for burial is important to Koreans, children sometimes gift parents over 60 with the special outfits.

Seoul is definitely a foodie’s heaven. We had a delicious lunch of Korean barbeque at the restaurant below and, after walking through its pretty side street on to a pedestrian shopping road, we salivated over the street food stalls. Too bad we were no longer hungry!

We explored the shopping area of Insadong, Seoul’s art and antiques center. We loved seeing the original aesthetic local artists brought to their crafts.

This is the courtyard of an open air mall on the shopping street.

We watched the Farmer’s Dance on this plaza, an early celebration of Spring and new life.

In a very different vein, on this busy downtown street, there were people listening to an anti communist speech. Below that are posters and flags depicting the dangers of communism and supporting the Korean and American alliance.

It is not unusual for this downtown area to have multiple protests on different political topics going on at the same time. We gave a high sign to this pro Israel demonstration.

In Cheonggye Plaza is this giant conch shell sculpture called Spring. The colorful and unusual sculpture is an icon of Seoul and celebrates the restoration of the Cheonggyecheon Stream, below.

Cheonggyecheon is an innovative urban renewal project that first attracted a lot of criticism, but now is quite popular. Originally, it was a natural stream handling sewerage. After the Korean war, deteriorating conditions led to it being cemented over. A freeway overpass was built over the stream. In 2003, the government disassembled the expressway and restored the stream, creating a 6.8 mile riverwalk and public space through the heart of downtown Seoul.